Set In Sleeves
Many thanks to Glenda Sparling of Sure Fit Designs for the help I needed to draft an armhole with set in sleeve that fits!
Our fashion line here at handesofawoman.com began with a generously oversized tunic, with big slouchy pockets, side slits, a self cap sleeve and no darts.
This was followed rapidly by a longer muumuu/dress version.
In an effort to slim the silhouette, the basic tunic top followed, maintaining the ability to go on over the head without the extra fabric volume.
Requests soon followed for a set in sleeve.
Several months and tutorials have passed in the endeavor for drafting an armhole and sleeve that builds on the original primitive construction of our line. The set in sleeve method by Sure Fit Designs came through with both specific instructions and general guidelines that resulted in success! If you sew for yourself and others, I highly recommend Sure Fit Designs!
With Glenda's tips and instructions, we were able to add a set in sleeve to our existing fashion designs, keeping everything else in the designs the same. Our next project will be adding a small amount of shaping using a bust dart.
Notes: Our original tunic/dress in size Large was made from rectangles of fabric with a shaped neckline. The armhole was made by leaving the top of the side seam open about 10"; that means a total opening of 20". To make the new armhole we kept that 10" depth level for the bottom of the armhole, then used Glenda's tip about using the shoulder measurement, front chest measurement and back chest measurements to help define the borders of the armhole. Next the curved tool for larger bust measurements helped blend a new armhole curve. This added about 4" total to the armhole or about 24" total. Using that 24", I found the bust measurement on the master sleeve pattern that resulted in that total 24" distance around the armhole cap. This method lets us keep our primitive design and construction technique, allows considerable slimming of the silhouette while still allowing our woven dresses to go on over the head. Many thanks, Glenda!
- Catherine Schmid Murphy